Pacific Northwest Pink Shrimp: writer Nancy Leson offers creative ways to use this tiny treat that’s ready-to-eat!
Award-winning food writer Leson uncovers pro tips and secrets on how to best buy, prepare, and cook abundant, sustainably caught Pacific Northwest pink shrimp
I was once bawled-out by a restaurant boss who didn’t like the way I described the evening’s special, a waitress-spiel that went like this: “Tonight we’re serving Shrimp Scampi, large prawns sauteed with garlic, butter, and white wine.” Her beef?
“Stop saying all three! It can’t be shrimp, and scampi, and prawns.”
She wasn’t wrong. But she wasn’t right, either. For proof, I offer Exhibit A, from James Peterson’s award-winning seafood reference “Fish & Shellfish”:
“In parts of the United States and in Great Britain the word prawn is used for all shrimp except tiny cocktail shrimp, which are usually called bay shrimp. In other parts of the United States only very large shrimp are called prawns with all others called simply shrimp. On the East Coast (of the United States) everything is just called shrimp except freshwater prawns, which are called simply prawns. Scampi is a Venetian word for Dublin Bay prawns (sometimes called lobsterettes, langoustines, or langostinos), which are more closely related to lobsters than to shrimp.”
Got that? And don’t even get me started about the similarly confusing color-coding of America’s favorite seafood, which brings me to the subject of this post: our very own Pacific Northwest pink shrimp.
These tiny tasties — sold hundreds-to-the pound as “shrimp meat” — are not only local and sustainably caught along the entire West Coast, but easy to use and delicious to eat.
Recognized by its scientific name, Pandalus jordani, this ocean-caught seafood staple ranges from Alaska in the north to Baja California in the south. While often referred to as “cocktail shrimp,” their diminutive size means you’re unlikely to confuse these with the jumbo shrimp typically served with cocktail sauce at your favorite steakhouse.
You could easily confuse Pandalus jordani with its East Coast cousin Pandalus borealis, also commonly called “pink shrimp,” another miniscule shrimp from cold northeastern waters, (though currently not commercially fished).
But, you won’t confuse either of those petite pinks with the much larger pink shrimp from warmer waters in the Gulf of Mexico, whose shells range from coral pink to brown. Nor with white shrimp from the Gulf, whose shells range from faintly pink to gray.
Well, then.
Let’s just change that colorful subject and celebrate this unique harvest, tasty by any name.
Commercial cold-water shrimping off Washington and Oregon dates from the late 1950s. Though other shrimp species inhabit our coastal waters, only Pacific Northwest pink shrimp has been abundant enough to support a large, long-term, commercial fishery. The stock is carefully managed through regulation, determining where and when fishing may occur.
Trawl-caught from April through October using approved sustainable fishing methods certified by the Marine Stewardship Council, the shrimp is kept on ice at sea and later processed at plants in Washington and Oregon coastal communities including Washington, Ilwaco and Astoria. There, the catch is cooked, mechanically peeled (what? you thought it was done by hand?) then carefully inspected before being packaged for shipment. Frozen, it’s available year-round.
As ever, shop for Pacific Northwest pink shrimp at a reputable seafood market or trusted supermarket.
Even when offered thawed, I prefer to buy shrimp-meat frozen (look in the freezer-case or ask your fishmonger if there’s any in back) — flash frozen shrimp are just as delectable with other current freezing methods. Don’t plan to use thawed shrimp immediately? Carefully strain any accumulated water before refrigerating; allowing the delicate shrimp to rest in its “juices” compromises its texture. Purchased frozen, the smart cook thaws the shrimp in the fridge (I like to do this using a fine strainer over a bowl) and blots it dry on paper-towels before using.
I also use these sweet little shrimp to garnish — and glamour-ify — everything from my favorite chilled gazpacho to a side salad of soft lettuce greens with a simple vinaigrette, or as part of a main-course salad when served with other proteins like crumbled blue cheese and hard-boiled egg.
Pacific Northwest pink shrimp is an easy, elegant add when paired with delicate pan-seared white fish, such as local petrale sole. Just sauté the fish in a hot oil-laced skillet, remove to a warm plate then make a quick shrimp sauce by melting butter in the skillet, adding a squeeze of lemon juice, the shrimp, plus a handful of parsley.
Crunchy Mexican tostadas make a swell base for a quick, ceviche-like shrimp dish. Just toss the shrimp with a generous squeeze of lime and/or lemon; combine that with a dice of tomatoes, white onion and minced jalapeno; then finish with a handful of finely chopped cilantro and a goodly sprinkling of salt. Delicioso! Or exchange crunchy for creamy and substitute avocado for tostada: split a large ripe avocado in half, slice it, plate it, salt it, and spoon the shrimp ceviche on top.
What about an old-school shrimp salad sandwich? Easy enough to make when you mix the shrimp with mayonnaise plus add-ins like celery. Or season the salad with mayo, celery seed and a hit of one of my must-have condiments, tarragon-flavored Dijon mustard. Don’t feel like a sandwich? Then eat this as a snack; it’s great on crackers.
And speaking of old-school: James Beard, the Dean of American cookery, hailed from Oregon and confessed a great love for his native Pacific Northwest pink shrimp prepared as “Potted Shrimp.” To make that buttery British delicacy à la Beard, clarify 10 ounces of unsalted butter, then set aside 4 tablespoons. Toss one pound of Pacific Northwest pink shrimp in the remaining butter, season with ½ teaspoon Kosher salt, ¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, and a big pinch of cayenne pepper. Ladle the shrimp into four small “pots” (read: ramekins) and seal the top with a thin layer of the set-aside butter. Chill in the fridge. Do as they do in the U.K. and serve it cold with toasted bread at teatime or do as I do in the U.S.: bring the pot/s up to room temperature (the better for spreading) and serve with crackers as an appetizer.
Casting a wider global net, I use Pacific Northwest pink shrimp in a multitude of Asian preparations, including the recipes below for Korean Shrimp and Zucchini Pancakes and Vietnamese-influenced Smacked Cucumber and Shrimp Salad. Both are a quick fix. The first is a nod to chef Rachel Yang, co-owner of Seattle restaurants Joule and Revel, who long-ago shared with me a favorite family recipe which, tweaked a bit, has long been a favorite in my family as well. The other is a refreshing peanut-laced salad from cookbook author Andrea Nguyen’s fabulous Vietnamese Food Any Day. Enjoy!
Korean Shrimp and Zucchini Pancakes
Makes 12 pancakes
Preparation time is about 20 minutes
Ingredients for the pancakes
One medium (about 8 ounces) zucchini
¾ cup all-purpose flour plus ¼ cup rice flour (or substitute 1 cup all-purpose flour)
¾ cup water (see note, below)
1 large egg
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon fish sauce
1 scallion (green onion), finely sliced
3/4 pound Pacific Northwest pink shrimp
2 tablespoons canola oil (or substitute another neutral-flavored oil)
Ingredients for the dipping sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon mirin, sake or dry sherry
¼ teaspoon chili oil (optional)
Mix all ingredients together
Directions to make pancakes
Pre-heat oven to 250 degrees to keep the first batch of pancakes warm. You can also use a toaster oven.
Using the small tines of a box grater, grate the zucchini with the skin on. Squeeze out excess water to make about 1 packed cup of zucchini — reserving the excess “zucchini water.” (Note: add this to tap water to make-up the ¾-cup called for in this recipe.)
In a good-size bowl, whisk the flour, water, egg, salt and fish sauce until smooth. Add scallion, shrimp and grated zucchini to the batter and combine.
Heat a 10- to 12-inch skillet (preferably non-stick) on medium-high. Add canola oil and heat until the oil shimmers.
Create pancakes by dropping 6 large tablespoonsful of batter into the pan, then turn the heat down a bit.
Cook about 4 minutes on each side or until crisp and brown, flattening the pancake after you flip it. Place the first batch in the oven and repeat with remaining pancakes.
Serve immediately with dipping sauce on the side.
Smacked Cucumber and Shrimp Salad
Serves six
Preparation time is about 15 minutes
Ingredients
1 medium English cucumber (or substitute 12 ounces of Persian cucumbers)
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon sugar, plus 1 tablespoon
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
2 ½ teaspoons fish sauce
½ Fresno or jalapeño chile, finely chopped, or 2 teaspoons chile-garlic sauce
¾ cup Pacific Northwest pink shrimp
2 tablespoons chopped peanuts
Directions
Trim the ends off the cucumber. Using a heavy cleaver or the bottom of a saucepan, smack the cucumber from one end to the other; it will crack and open up. Using a knife, separate and cut it lengthwise into four long pieces; the smacking has done some of that for you already, so let it naturally guide you. Angle your knife to cut each cucumber section into dramatically thick slice, each roughly ¼-inch thick; they won’t all look the same. Put into a bowl and toss with the salt and ¼ teaspoon sugar. Refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 10 minutes, or up to 1 hour, while the cucumber releases liquid.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar, the lime juice, fish sauce, and chile to make a dressing.
Drain the cucumber in a mesh strainer, shake out excess liquid, and transfer to a large bowl. Add the dressing, shrimp and peanuts (save out a bit for garnish). Taste and adjust the flavors as needed. Pile the salad into a bowl and serve immediately.
(Writer Nancy Leson learned much of what she knows about food during her first career: waiting tables at some of the country’s finest restaurants. Seattle knows her as the mouth that scored — for the better part of two decades — as restaurant critic and food columnist for the Seattle Times, and as food commentator for NPR member-station KNKX. These days you’ll find her teaching classes at culinary schools in and around Seattle, hosting international tours with Earthbound Expeditions and the University of Washington Alumni Association, and helping end hunger one loaf at a time with the volunteer baking brigade Community Loaves. You can find Nancy on social @nancyleson and at www.nancyleson.com)
